Philosophy/5. Philosophy of religion

Kazah Natsional University by name al-Farabi, Kazakhstan, Almaty

 

Women head wraps in Central Asia

PhD, Professor Baytenova Nagima

Master of the 1-year Monkebaeva Kamshat

 

Among the great number and diversity of women's clothing, existing in different nations, great interest is the head women's cloaks Asian nations. Especially attractive in terms of learning is the veil, which in our country has become a symbol of the head of capes in general. The media called the hijab head cover any covering the face of women in Islamic countries. Most people will say the names of little capes headaches, such as the hijab or abaya, but if you tell them that this cloak covering the woman's face, it is likely to be heard: "A veil ...".
 The question of the origin and time of occurrence of different types of headaches capes are not just attracted the attention of Soviet ethnographers. Research on the history of the burqa, which flourished at the end of XIX beginning of XX century the peoples of Central Asia, initially were hampered by: the fight against robber bands and the economic crisis has not contributed to the study of Central Asian costume. 

In the 20-30 years of XX century, when the Soviet power in Central Asia led the fight against the so-called "remnants of Islam", the veil is almost gone out of use. All forces were sent to fight with her, she was a symbol of the oppressed women of the East. The country needs a cotton and the Soviet government forced to go to the cotton fields of women whose husbands were killed in the fight against the ideology inculcated. It was believed that "cotton - is the key to victory over the veil" and "cotton will pull in the gate Uzbek women." From the burqa has become unnecessary sewed clothes for children, or use it for other domestic purposes.

Over time, the veil regained its ceremonial function: it became the bride to wear during the wedding and the bride in the carriage house of her husband.
 Perhaps, the veil would have remained forever the last page, if not for Department of Central Asian republics, and return them to the norms of Islam, this was the reason for the return to a life of head women's cloaks, and, in particular, the veil, not only as a ceremonial garment, but also for its intended purpose: to hide his face and figure of a woman at the exit from the house. In this connection, to get answers to questions that such a veil, where and when it appeared, it seems quite interesting.

Modern literature on the veil a little. The most extensive work on this topic have been published or reprinted in the 70s of XX century (see bibliography). Articles in magazines about the veil of later times are often based on these studies. Very few illustrations, mostly in various publications using illustrations from the same album.

Widespread in Muslim countries, women's blankets, throws on his head and hiding the entire figure, became a particular kind of female clothing off. Head wraps have dual origin: one developed from a large scarf (fee), for example, veil and cape beludzhek Persians, and, most likely, the Afghan burqa, others come from the coat, collar draped over his head. This type of head capes spread among the peoples of Central Asia, except for the Baluch (people living in Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan and preaching Islam).

The fact that the Central Asian veil is very different from the female parent capes in neighboring countries is not surprising, since this type of clothing formed from different people on different basis.

 Persian veil (chadir, Chodari) consisted of a large shawl or two shawls. But since this design does not provide full figures conceal a woman, the veil was complemented by special street trousers, which were not at home.
Afghan burqa - chatri probably formed from the tissue, raskroennogo in a semicircle. It consists of a round, tight-fitting head cap, which is sewn into the assembly, this kind of cloak or boards, large enough to envelop a woman from head to toe. Chatri complemented by street trousers, tucked into that dress. Both of these forms of street clothes, Persian and Afghani, although at a much different appearance, have much in common, in principle, the design.

Street Wear peoples of Central Asia, including Tajiks and Uzbeks - residents plains areas of ancient irrigation where developing sedentary, particularly urban culture, and where a particular development has been the seclusion of women - is very different from the head women's capes Asia.

The difference is rooted in the very origins of this fashion: in contrast to the Central Asian Persian burqa veil is not formed from a handkerchief, and swing from the shoulder clothing that were worn on the head collar.
Bathrobe, jumped on his head, was in Central Asia, a lot of options and was a different stage of its transformation into a special kind of clothing - from the gown, which is worn on the head, then as a normal Armor clothing in the sleeves, to the veil and Turkmen capes (purendzhek and chyrpy), which served only capes. 

If you jumped on his head in the robe sleeves not worn it in a more or less deformed: varied mainly sleeves, which are folded back. In some ways they are lengthened and narrowed in others - simply fastened behind their backs. The most advanced form of such cloaks were of the Uzbek-Tajik veil (ill.1), as well as Turkmen purendzhek, while the head cover in some other groups hardly differed from the gowns, worn on the sleeve. As much has not changed the cut of capes, gowns coming from, you can easily find them in a swing tunic dress, with all the features of its breed: long and narrow sleeves veil made from the same cross-pieces of fabric, as well as on an ordinary robe, made the collar, pockets, available on some versions of the burqa (Tashkent, Fergana Valley), the same arrangement as in lab coats - they are vertical, made in the joint. But, by turning them into decorative detail trim pockets are more richly, and hole pockets either disappeared altogether or were used for cross-cutting and threading arms.

Of the various headaches occurred robe cloaks semi Uzbeks and Tajiks, many groups, called dzhelyak (in Shahrizyabse in rural Uzbekistan Samarkand region)., Dzhegde (Khorezm Uzbeks), kurta (Karluk, Uzbeks, Turkmens) and Peshwa (South Uzbeks in Uzbekistan).

Of the female head of the Central Asian capes are the following:

1. Veil - is the most complete form of head cover. Was particularly prevalent in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. As is typical of urban clothing, it has never been characteristic of the everyday dress of the women's mountain villages, and are found mainly in cities and occasionally in major villages.

2. Robes - sargirak, zhelakbosh, halatcha - which combine the function of shoulder dress with a head cover. Sometimes used as capes made several shorter gowns.

3. Capes, gowns (yakhtak, dzhelyak, farisar), which is strongly modified: narrowed and shortened, with narrow and short sleeves, fastened at the back braid. They are specially adapted to the role of head cover.

4. Material mantles of white, sleeveless, with a semi-circle shape - sarkashak.Appeared in the last years before the establishment of Soviet power.

5. Great white, sometimes black, factory shawls, capes used instead.

Head wraps, sleeveless capes were the further development of the type of veil, sleeves which have a purely decorative piece.

Previous stage in the history of capes formed by shoulder dress, was the head women nakidyvanie when leaving the house the usual robe - his own, a husband or son. In many places, and in a large urban center, as Tashkent, in the second half of XIX century wore on his head munisak (a type of women's robe), which was used as a regular clothing. Only at the end of the XIX century the veil is widespread. Only this time, or a little before the veil was a special kind of universally feminine clothes off. Have been developed all of its original, strictly defined in the tradition of each region features.

Formation of Muslim dress in Central Asia has been a long and complex process.The appearance of the veil is associated with religious fanaticism, which has appeared a reaction to all progressive, especially after the death of an enlightened ruler of Samarkand Ulugbek, and the gradual deepening of the influence of orthodox Islam in later centuries. This explains the wide spread of the veil and the seclusion of women, especially among the urban Muslim centers of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, and the absence of the veil in the rest of the region, even among the rural population.

Why dress gown - Faraj - served as a starting point in the appearance of head cover veil? Maybe because in the late Middle Ages it was clothing of the clergy.But it may be because the term "Faraj" the former ancient Sogdiana where in modern times has been extended veil, belonged to the ritual clothing, which was associated in the past with the cult of Anahita - Zoroastrian deities of the pantheon, the mother goddess and fertility, patron of agriculture , personified in the grace of water in Central Asia of the Amu-Darya and the sun god Mithras. And this ritual clothing has long been included in the bride's dress, which, according to the Central Asian beliefs, was the embodiment of the earth goddess of fertility, her earthly counterpart.

Analysis of cut veil leads to several conclusions. Burqa, which hides a figure Muslim women cape, was associated with Islam only in the last stages of its history, and the Arabs brought it to Central Asia. It developed out of local forms of dress according to the ideological and social standards of life of Central Asian society. The tradition of wearing evolved over many centuries in the process of communicating with the residents of Central Asia and neighboring peoples with changes in the social sphere. At various stages in its history, Central Asia was part of the various states (drevneiranskoe, Arabic, Mongolian, Russian), so the opportunities for mutual influence and direct borrowing was enough. But the influence of other nations for centuries hindered the power of tradition that had to be scrupulously respected, and the deviation from them was seen as a violation of the vital foundations of society. But for now will remain a patriarchal way home, do not disappear and the power of tradition. Therefore, in the clothing of the peoples of Central Asia, so much originality and uniqueness.

Office of the peoples of Central Asia on Russia in the late twentieth century, gave an impetus to the restoration of independence and self-determination for the peoples of these countries. Return to the Central Asian peoples to Islam, reviving the wearing of head capes in everyday clothes. While the influence of extremists in Central Asian countries are not significant, but with the strengthening of their influence, the number of women in the head cover will increase dramatically, as it was in Afghanistan when the Taliban came to power, and women put away their homes, forbidding them to appear on the streets unaccompanied by men, to go to work and school.

Now for the violation of this decree woman in Taliban-controlled areas, waiting for either a prison sentence, or flogging with a whip.
 In some countries, national traditions, non-Islamic by the canons, impose a strong imprint on Muslim rule. In countries where not provided adequate training of the population, and ethnic traditions are woven into the Islamic view, and often not only easier, but also distort the Islamic values.

Ha really is no veil or burqa in the traditional Sunni Islam does not exist. Wearing a veil covering the face of a woman, not a mandatory injunction of Islam, as many mistakenly believe. This is only a tradition adopted by some Muslim communities.As for some of the backward states, where the women wear head bags with slits for eyes, it is not due to the medieval barbarism of Shari'a requirements and aspirations of the private property of men, their lack of culture, fanaticism and obscurantism.

Believing woman ordered to wear a scarf or a special blanket spacious - "hijab", which are symbols of the dignity of a Muslim, her face in this case remains open.Clothing should meet the generally accepted notions of modesty in Islam: not slim silhouette, not to be transparent and low-necked dresses, and skirts should not have any cuts, and their length should be possible. Sharia prohibits the wearing of wigs, especially men, fake nails, and other counterfeit items, prohibits plucking eyebrows, but allows the believing women to a reasonable use of perfumes and cosmetics.


The used literature
1. Abdullaev, T. Clothing Uzbeks (XIX-XX c). - Fan, Tashkent, 1978.
2. Suit the peoples of Central Asia: historical and ethnographic essays. - Moscow: Nauka, 1979.
3. Lobacheva N. veil: Ritual suit or wedding dress. - "Asia and Africa Today", 1995, N8,
Ð.78-80.
4. Sukharev, OA History of the Central Asian costume Samarkand (second half of the XIX-the beginning. XXcen.). - M., 1982.

The author's inquiry

 

1. A surname, a name: PhD, Professor Baytenova Nagima Zhaulybaevna

2. A study place, the status: master of the 1-year faculty of philosophy of the Kazakh National University by name al-Farabi Monkebaeva Kamshat Zharilkasinovna

3. The address: 050063, Almaty,  Sayin street, the house 81

Publisher «Economics»

for Monkebaeva Kamshat Zharilkasinovna

work phone: 276-13-14

mobile phone: 8-701-270-17-78

4. An electronic mail box: kamshat77@mail.ru