Historical sciences / 4. Ethnography

Prof. N.M. Guliyeva,

Doctor of historical sciences,

Institute of archaeology and ethnography of Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences,

V.H. Eminbayli

Ganja branch of Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences

ABOUT HISTORICAL ESSAY OF GANJA CITY

Ganja city, that located on an altitude of 400-450 meters above sea level, is situated on the West of Azerbaijan, 375-kms to the west from the capital city Baku, on Ganja-Kazakh plain, that located in the Kura - Araz lowland, at the foot of the Lesser Caucasus on the north-east. One of the areas of initially appeared  human civilization was  an integral part of Azerbaijan, the historical land of Ganja city. Scientific and archaeological researches have proved, that Ganja  had been the cradle of science and culture not only of Azerbaijan, but also of the whole East. Most of the natural and geographical conditions, plenty water of rivers, fertile land, rich ore deposit, fuel, wood  materials used for construction and craftsmanship, colored plants for getting color and natural caves allowed the first people  to live in this area  in the Late Stone Age.

The Kur and its branches, that run here, increase fertility of the soil. Grape grapevines are never torned with a hoe and cut every five years.  New grapevines bring harvest for the second year, others becoming so tall, that the majority of grape remain on it. At the same time they can also growth domestic and wild animals.

This country is a flourishing and beautiful place with all the possible benefits  and heights of the Caucasus Mountains. Great Kur brings here many large and small fishes with its tumultuous stream . It runs to the Caspian Sea. It’s plains are full of grain, wine, oil, salt, silk and cotton paper, olive trees don’t have accounts;  gold, silver, copper and yellow incense is eliminated from its mountains. Predatory animals and many birds; eagles, hawks, and others are here."
 Historian of the VII century Musa Kalankaytuklu  described Albany so : "From the ancient time there was the road in Albania,  that linking Georgia and the Front Asia. One of the greatest cities of this  rich area was Ganja. "
Well-known thinker Abdur - Razzaq Isfahani appreciated Ganja’s natural conditions, said: "I have never seen the city like Ganja all over the world. It has paradisiacal color and the smell of musk.” It’s water is rose water, it’s land is saffron .Ganja has cool and pleasant air. It seems that every time it’s land goes into raptures, wants to wake up. " 

Of course, the above-mentioned facts are good example of that, the urban culture has been on a wide area of Ganjabasar more than 3000 years. 
The city has a history of 3000 years. One of the major factors of it is its geographic location. In nowadays, when people speak about it’s historical, geographical location and position they mean the area of Ganjabasar. This area in various stages of the history was named as Ganja-Karabakh beylerbeylik, Elizavetpol province, also Ganjabasar with the center in Ganja. Nowadays , the historical territory of Ganja is also named Ganja-Kazakh economic region or Western region. This area includs Agstafa, Dashkasan, Gadabay, Goranboy, Goygol, Kazakh, Samukh, Tovuz administrative regions,cities Ganja and Naftalan. 

In one of the ancient sources there was an important information about, that Ganja was founded three thousand years ago. Thus, the first and important information about, that Ganja was founded 4000 years ago by the one of the ancient Turkish tribes –Sacks- one of aboriginal population of the Caucasus, was reflected in a geographical treatise "Shahrestanihai Eran" (Iranian cities)that concerned to the 6th century. This geographical treatise was written in pahlavi language. There was said, that Ganja was founded by famous Turkish commander Afrasiab 3000 years ago. Afrasiab is a historical person and he was the head of sacks- tours, who lived in Azerbaijan (In the ancient sources Turks were named as tours).

Ganjabasar is one of the richest areas from archaeological point of view. As a result of archaeological investigations here were found samples of material culture, that concerned to the stages of different history period.Today most of them are kept in various museums of the world.

The flint tools ,that found in Gillikdag workshop and camp around Ganja , ladle,that were found by a prominent Azerbaijani archaeologist Isaac Jafarzade, give the reason to say ,that people, who lived in this area in VII - VI millennium BC were the founders of the Late Stone Age culture.

Archaeological investigations prove ,that in this period the main population of this region had sedentary lifestyle and were engaged with farming. In V millennium BC in Ganja region all known to us domestic animals were domesticated.This fact is approved with osteology remainders, that were found during archaeological excavations .

The anonymous author of the article "Russian city" gave the schedule indicating the date of cities of the South Caucasus, also of Azerbaijan.And here he matched, that Ganja was founded in II centurie BC - IV centurie.

The same words, that match,tha Ganja is older than Barda and Beylagan prove Qademeysterin’s informations and conception,that says " At a short distance from Barda another city was also flowering , which at the time of destruction substituted it. It was Ganja city . Their origin, probably, was the same ... ".

The biology teacher of the secondary school of Yelenendorf (Goy gol) Yakov Hummel ,who has German nationality, with the power of students circle of the school carried out archaeological research works on " the right and left banks of Ganjachay,in the Gillikdag area near Goy gol , in Zurnabad, Balchılı and has gained valuable materials of Bronze Age and Early Iron ages ". The value of found materials was so great, that with their account has been created Yelenendorph Museum of Country Studies in 1927.

Most of the historical monuments,that show ,that national wealth of our nation Ganja city has a 3000-year history,today in great museums expositions of the world have unique place. In Metropol (USA) Munchen , Berlin, Hamburg, Louvre, Paris, Moscow, St. Petersburg and other cities in the state and private museums rare and valuable exhibits of the history of ancient Ganja are preserved.

Ganja ,that has changed its location at least 4 times since its establishment, is located in a favorable position from the strategic point of view.That why it always has been the center of attention of foreigners . Ganja,that was the victim of a terrible earthquake many time,also was the subject of attacks of Mongols, Kharezms, Georgians, Arabs, Russians and other invaders. Ganja has turned to the arena of war damage of different countries of the world .But in spite of it didn’t shaken, and using the genetic power revived and developed,and rose to the level of great cities.

The famous arabian historian and geographical scientist Ibn al-Athir valued Ganja as the hero-city and said : "Tatars (Mongols) after robbing and ruining Beylagani and its around moved to Ganja .But when tatars knew, that its population is big, they have shown bravery in the war with Georgians and the strength of this city, they could’t go there".

Protecting the status of capital city Ganja, in the various stages of the history, had an important role in the preservation of the ancient statehood traditions of Azerbaijan. At the end of the VII century Ganja was the provincial city of Arabs, in the X century the capital of Arran, in the XI century Seljuk’s, in the XII-XIII centuries was the residences of Atabek’s empire. During this period Ganja had renaissance time of its development, science, culture, trade, crafts reached the highest peak.

As a result of scientific researches by the well-known arabist and scientist on Nizami’s work Bertels have been proved ,that during the terrible earthquake in Ganja in 1139, 3 thousand people died. This fact is reflect the city's power and greatness again. For comparison, it is also appropriate to note that, in the middle of the XIII century, in the great European city in Paris, lived nearly 100 thousand and in London nearly 40-50 thousand people .

Ganja city ,that gave to the world such great thinkers and word masters as Nizami Ganjavi, Abul-Ula Ganjavi, Mehseti Ganjavi, Raziyya Ganjavi, Mirza Shafi Vazeh , in XII-XIII centuries restorated its high status and became one of the great cities,that kept alive the whole science, culture and state traditional system of the East.

Sheikh Nizamy also has got both of the primary and secondary, and scientific education in his favorite city in Ganja.He had two main reasons,why he didn’t go to Baghdad and other centers of science. He loved his native city, land , was charmed of it , and also he knew ,that Ganja had the high scientific potential. So the great thinker has never left his homeland and thought about it.

In other words, if the poet would have the power to leave his native city, he moved to the center of Caliphate to Bagdad,and collected great treasures with unexampled art. For this reason, great memoirist of Middle Ages,who saw beside "Khamsa","Divan" with 20 thousand stanzas Dovletshah Semerqendi stated "an honorable place of birth Sheikh Nizamy is Ganja". Don’t forget that,genius as Nizamy can’t be unfounded.For appearing they need historical with ancient traditions, socio-economic and cultural environment. The existence of such environment, again proves that Ganja has 3 thousand year history. Because for turning one city to the scientific and cultural center it needs an ancient tradition and a long period of time .

During XV century Ganja was included to the states Garagoyunlu and Aghgoyunlu and managed by different rulers. During the rule of Uzun Hasan Agqoyunlu Ganja’s trade relations with other cities were widen and it has resulted its re-development. By the opinion of research scientist M.X.Heydarov,in this century one of the great trade-craft centers of Azerbaijan were Tabriz, Ardabil and Khoy and also Ganja.In Ganja appeared craftsmanship organizations that based on ideology “Axilik” and the most important professional form of organization- Trades unions were active. During Saphavid’s ruling Ganja was one of the important cities of Azerbaijan and the whole East. Ganja –Karabakh’s beylerbeylik was one of the big province of Sephevid State on territory.

Province’s broads were continuing along the Kura River on the north to the west from the place, where Kura River connected with the river Araz, to Bargushad pin ( the province are considered) in Yerevan and on north direction passing through the eastern part of the lake Goycha again to the north, entered to the Tiflis province, and rose up to the province of Lori.

At the beginning of the XVIII century, Ganja City has retained the status of largest and most important city. At the end of XVII century - at the beginning of the XVIII century, a number of travelers, who visited Azerbaijan,have given wide information about its size and beauty.

Netherlands traveler Kornelia de Bruyun wrote about Ganja so: "Ganja is located on 50 lye distance from Shamakhy,it is bigger than Shamakhy for four times, there are stone buildings there, most of them are two floors, it has beautiful and great kharvansarays, deputy has large and wide palace there. The beautiful river flows on the city’s territory , there are many gardens , good wine and plenty of fruit here.So , this city of can be considered as one of the most important cities of the East. These informations were given to me by the French missioner and several Georgians, that lived in this city . "

However, the political problems and foreign military intervention to Azerbaijan in the first half of the XVIII century, ,made a lot of Azebaijani cities, also Ganja city suffered and was the reason of its destroying and completely turning to ruins.

This situation did not continue for a long time. In 1747 after Nadir Shah's killing palace’s aristocratas a result of conspiracy, his empire collapsed. Many small government entities on the territory of Azerbaijan - khanates appeared. One of this khanates was Gnaja Khanate,that appeared around Ganja city.

New danger on Ganja was activation of the policy of Russia in the South Caucasus.

After successful military operations against Osman’s Turkey and its close ally - the Crimean khanate in order to enhance their success in the South Caucasus Russian government prepared an action plan.

One of the Javad Khan’s contempraries S.S. Kovalesky in 1880 in notes about Georgia gave such kind of opinion : “Cavad Khan from the Qachars family in 50 years old with his intelligent and policy and also good negotiation who found agood reputation . "

In november of 1803 year Ganja was attacked with the Russian forces. In the first weeks of attack strong resistance of the city's defenders made Russians manoeuvre, made them replaced often marchs with long-term siege. Russian troops by blockading city, keeping people without water and food wanted to make people surrender. For this reason, Tsitsianov kept the city in blockade without water and food untill epidemic was spreading. In spite of all difficulties Ganja people prefered statehood and independence above all by valuesand didn’t surrender to enemy. As a result, the living force of Russian troops and war supplies were better and military operations have been resolved in their favor. Ganja’s occupation among the defenders, and also the population led to massive losses. According to Tsitsianov’s information on the 8th of January 1804 year ,among the defenders "1,500 people were killed, 17224 male and female were prisoners of war.

On the 8th of March 1804 year , in the letter to Tsar Tsitsianov asked to change Ganja’s name: "If Your Excellency like my proposal, I would like to dress up city’s name with the Holy name of Her Excellency empress Elizabeth Alekseevna : Yelisavetpol". Tsitsianov,who got Emperor agreement,als signed such kind of direction: "After 1 month of declared of Tsar’s reskript after or from April 1,if someone in xahisnamə or acts matchs Ganja with the old name not as Yelisavetpol, it will be a penalty in the amount of ruble."

After the restoration of independence of Azerbaijan Republic, Javad Khan became a symbol of our courage, patriotism and bravery. Worthy successor of the great leader Heydar Aliyev's political course cənab President Ilham Aliyev said: "I know, that Ganja people hold the memory of Javad Khan darlingly. Really he is one of the notable sons of of Azerbaijan people, is an example of perseverance and courage. His grave in the center of the city is not in accordance with his memor y. I think , that we should raise a mausoleum. The city will take a new form of architecture, and also Javad Khan’s memory will worthy become eternal”.

Exactly as a result of the attention and care of country Head with the support of Heydar Aliyev’s Foundation in 2005 in Ganja was built a worthy mausoleum for Javad Khan . Historical emblem of Ganja Khanate was restored, film about Javad Khan was released.

At the end of the XIX century, in connection with the emergence of the capitalistic relations,one of the cities of Azerbaijan ,where were the processes of formation of its main classes, bourgeoisie and proletariat was Ganja. The development of capitalistic relations in the different fields of city economy, its attraction to all-Russian market speeded this process.

"Turkish Revolution Committee of social-federalists", that showed the exceptional services in the establishment of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1905 and creation "Diphai" Party in Ganja, that was founded in order to protect our nation from the Armenian terrorism, once again showed ,that Ganja people could bate all their creatures for traditions, statehood and independence.

Thanks to the representatives of the national bourgeoisie patriots, formed in Ganja, under the leadership of Nuri Pasha was created the Caucasus Islamic Army, that saved Azerbaijan from the Armenian and Bolshevik forces ruthless genocide and created an incentive of the future of our country. For this reason,the capital of Azerbaijan Democratic Republik,that declared its independent in May ,28 in 1918, became Ganja. The leaderships of our first national state were outstanding and public men and statesmen, who have belonged to the noble family of Ganja.

On April 27, in 1920, after Azerbaijan Democratic Republic’s overthrowned by the Bolsheviks,that supported by bloody actions of XI Army,just only Ganja for the first time raised its statehood, independence and freedom voice against the Soviets. The arbitrariness of occupying army, shooting of innocent people,made Ganja people to begin Ganja rebellion against foreigners in a glorious page of history .

Brother of Great Uzeyir Bek Ceyhun Hacibeyli said about Ganja uprising full and exact thoughts:"Ganja’s uprising is a story ,that again earned nation's honor. In May Turkish blood wiped spot,that therowed to our nation during events on 27 April.Thus,Ganja began its sovet period of its history with revolt. " According to decision on July 30,in 1918, Ganja’s name, that was called Yelizavetpol Province,returned to itself ,but in 1935 with the instruction of Moscow Ganja’s name changed again into Kirovabad. Thus, Ganja got name of S.M.Kirov, who played an important role in establishment the colonial regime , and Autonomous Oblast for armenians in our land .

Since 1969, under the leadership of national leader Heydar Aliyevthere were regarded the works to return Ganja’s historical face . First of all, the historical monuments of the city, that have fallen into a bad situation ,(especially mosques) were restored. However, the main issue of concern for the national leader Heydar Aliyev, was the return of the city's historic name. At that time, this ancient city was given the name of S.M.Kirov, who was the favorite of communists of Russians. It was not easy to retrieve was the previous name of city. Despite these challenges, one of the major persons were throwed by national leader Heydar Aliyev in 1980. Thus, in the same period in Kirovabad was created two new district and one of them was given the name Ganja. Also, the new housing area,that was built here , was called "New Ganja". In 1969-1982 the national leader Heydar Aliyev came to Ganja 7 times, were acquainted with industrial enterprises,cultural objects, and met with cultural workers, writers, scientists, and community activists.

In that years,there were established such kind of great cultural objects as The poetry theater ,named Nizamy, Art Exhibition Hall, Children's Art Gallery, Children's Sports Games Complex, “Sherefkhanli country song’s theater", "Abulphas Nakhchivani", ”Xezine”("Treasure"), "Nizami Ganjavi-Pushkin" libraries, Ganja State Philharmonic, Chamber Orchestra, "Nizamy Ganjavi’s house museum" . In general, the number of such kind objects,that were created in Ganja in 1969-1982,were more than 40.

After the collapse of the Soviet Empire, our motherland Azerbaijan was testing on hard and difficult fate, the economic, social and political tensions created the fear of lossing of country independence. In such difficult circumstances, thanks to the management capacity and fine political feeling of national leader Heydar Aliyev prevented civil war in the western region and protecting Azerbaijan’s independence. So in Azerbaijan began a new development stage. The action plan prepared by national leader Heydar Aliyev for Ganja development is successfully continued by the worthy successor of his policy, the President of Azerbaijan Republic Mr. Ilham Aliyev. President Ilham Aliyev, since started his activity, highly valued Ganja and officially visited it 12 times, and practical measures for its social, economic and cultural development are being taken. Thanks to these measures most of important problems have been solved and found positive results.

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