Педагогические науки. Методика преподавания
спец.дисциплин в вузе
PHD, professor O.I.Vorozheikina, Master S.E.Utasheva
West Kazakhstan State University after M.Utemisov,
Kazakhstan
THE REGIONAL DIMENSION OF THE
METHODICAL TRAINING AND FORMATION OF SKILLS OF GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Costume design as any other object of
design, is closely linked with the analysis of complex phenomena and different
quality of reality that can not be observed directly and therefore require
special forms of reflection. To do this, the designer must have the
professional development of figurative thinking on the basis of the conceptual
and logical material interpretation which requires knowledge of the specific language
of graphic design. By the time of the discipline "Special drawing"
students know general patterns of academic drawing and painting, are familiar
with the features of the graphics, decorative painting. This course is a
synthesis of all these disciplines and is aimed at detailed study of the
theoretical aspects of graphic language and focuses on the theory and practice
of designing costumes.
One of the important units of graphic
information is a sketch. Sketch - is a preliminary sketch, says the idea of
art, such as new ideas, forms, new plastic material properties,
new combinations of colors and patterns, new parts and more. Conscious
deviation from the classical proportions of the image helps the stylist to talk
about their ideas into grotesque form. In the sketch, the idea of
the shape of suit is fixed with graphic images composed of
different lines, shapes, etc., which take new signs of expression as a result
of the creative styling. That is, in the suit and in the graphic image at the
same time there may be signs like costume and form of graphic signs.
The trend of using traditional national
costume in the design practice, outlined in the 80-ies of XX century, is
rapidly gaining momentum. Today, Kazakhstan has several major Fashion Houses
and many independent designers who have their own style and a good technical
platform. Regularly new collections are released that have a pronounced ethnic
orientation. The situation is complicated by the fact that for several decades,
starting with the 50-ies of XX century, was created a large number of products
in so-called pseudo-national style, which led to the formation of public
misconceptions about the artistic structure of the Kazakh national costume.
However, in recent years, in the wave of the growing interest in in-depth study
of the Kazakh culture, there is a tendency to a more delicate handling of
delicate ethnic material.
For the first time the perspectives of
the ethnic traditions in the design of modern clothes spoke N.P. Lamanova in
1920 years. Nevertheless, for a long time, this idea has not found a
theoretical reinforcement. Only 1970 years Professor F.M. Parmon developed the
method of system analysis of the national costume (for example, Russian
costume), which we use in our work.
For the first time the using of the
national traditions of Kazakh costume design in modern clothing was
theoretically justified by E.A. Rossohina. However, this work written over
thirty years ago, for the most part lost its relevance due to the radical
changes in design methodology.
Structural analysis of the Kazakh
national costume is one of the promising research. In this direction, E.K.
Toguzbayeva conducted the research closely with F.M. Parmon. L.K. Shildebayeva
aspects the using of traditional Kazakh costumes in contemporary fashion design
practice-specific cut and technologies. The problem of requirements justifying
for designing clothes based on the Kazakh national costume, disclosed in work
of M.A. Nurzhasarova. Zhienbekova A.A. investigated the Kazakh national costume
in the civilizational cultural aspect.
A significant contribution to the study
of certain aspects of the design of modern clothes on the basis of the Kazakh
national costume made S.Zh. Assanova. B. E. Assanova co-developed a number of
manuals relating to methods of designing clothes based on ethnic
characteristics of the material and fabrication of samples of traditional
costume, using modern production technologies.
It should be emphasized that these
authors consider the problem of using the traditions of Kazakh national costume
mainly in the context of design and technology, rather than artistic design,
and practically does not pay attention to the development of the concept and
the role of imaginative sketch graphics in the design of clothing.
In the course of our research and we
found that the use of ethnic traditions in the process of sketching,
brainstorming for fashion design is an important factor in the formation of
professional graphics skills and creativity of students.
The problem of graphic preparation
clothing designers has intensification when it was transition to the credit
system of education. On the one hand, necessity of strengthen action-oriented
knowledge of students receiving qualification of "Bachelor" on the
other - reducing training time of main educational undergraduate programs on
the formation of its methods and techniques.
The functions of the teacher are:
setting goals, organization of students activity, management of activities and
analysis of the results for compliance with planned. It becomes important not
only that the teacher gave the student as how they learn knowledge and turn
them into skills.
Some researchers of the theoretical
foundations of pedagogy appropriate to describe the activity of the subjects of
the pedagogical process as a system of interrelated processes serial number of
solutions to various problems. The solution to these problems in the
preparation of the designers should eventually lead to the implementation of a
holistic creative project. This method of operation is the active form of
training and development, which allows the learning process to form the ability
to work independently to solve creative and technological problems, make
informed decisions, apply and use the acquired skills, knowledge, skills and
information in various areas of reform activities. In Latin projectus - thrown
forward, design, plan. The design process includes an analysis of project
tasks, summarizing material, sketching, calculation and planning of the
creative process, artistic design and modeling, the study and consideration of
the sociological and economic requirements. Based on this, the creative project
can be considered only such work, when with the finished products must be
submitted to all the materials that reflect the stages of development and
implementation of the project. Production of apparel can be considered as the
sum of several technological operations performed in the following sequence: 1)
preparation of a sketch; 2) execution of the drawing, design, pattern; 3) The
technology of making women's clothing (a rolling process); 4) Production of
apparel on an individual plan.
Thus, in the first phase of the project
is the development of ideas and sketch the graph. During training of special
drawing the pedagogical process is constructed as a system of processes of
decision of creative tasks. Creative problem - problem situation where students
are required to take an independent, creative solution on the basis of acquired
knowledge and practical skills developed as a result of exercise. Exercise -
repeated execution of actions aimed at mastering the graphic method or
material, or improve quality. In the description of the creative task must be
allocated: motif, on which construction activities; conditions and requirements
to the object of art; contradiction encouraged to transforming activities;
forming of applied skills in graphics suit.
In general terms, the decision of
educational task, including the sketch graphics, presents a number of steps: 1)
awareness of the problem as a problem; 2) the selection requirements (what to
get) and conditions (which in this case have); 3) the definition of the
relationship between the subject and the data; 4) the implementation of an
information system transformation conditions by the operator of the problem
(set of regulations); 5) Check (control, mutual control, self-control) solved
the problem how to relate it to the specific requirements.
Methods for solving graphic tasks can
be reduced mainly to three: verbal-descriptive, graphical, object-manipulative.
Verbal-descriptive method
is used in solving the problems in the study of images, where it serves to
transfer a given artistic and graphic information on the image in the word.
Engagements of reading of costume graphic works are carried out to future
designers mastered the technique analysis of the shape and composition of the
costume. Achieving the set goals can be accomplished by doing the exercises the
following three groups: the answers to the questions raised in a certain
sequence, the study of the images according to the plan, an independent
analysis of the images of clothes. Subject-manipulative
method of solution is used mainly when certain graphics operations are
included in the other activities. For example, the solution of problems in the
modeling of products with the help of templates, as well as the performance of
collages and applications. Graphical
method – fixation of decisions in
sketches and sketches, is the most widely used. The form of the original data
can be graphically (sketch or visual representation of the suit, scan the
surface of the product, as well as the scheme (section) or visual (image seam),
full-scale (the product, put on the figure or on the dummy), verbal
(description of the model suit) or a combination, and Form fixing results of
the decision - only graphics. Graphic solution methods may be different. They
depend on the nature of the imaged object (parts and elements of the suit or
the whole image), on the nature of the image, as well as the preparedness of
students to the construction of the image. The graphical method of solution
when training special drawing in clothing design is basic, because it allows
you to master the techniques of graphic activity used in the professional activity.
The development of students the basics of graphics costume sketch is based on
the theoretical and practical aspects.
The theoretical aspects
of the study of sketch graph:
1.
Basic concepts and principles of
graphic design sketch of the costume.
1.1.
Linguistic visual thinking. The
origins of modern graphic design. Expressive means of graphs and their
improvement. The value of a graphic visual language. The structure of the
graphic language.
1.2.
Types of graphic language costume.
The function of scientific and artistic representation. The function of
art-graphic image. The function of technical images. 1.3 Formation of the
principles of design graphics. The complex of requirements for costumes and
graphic works. The landmark feature of the costume. The semiotic nature of
suit. The difference between the artistic image in art and project the image in
the design of the suit.
2.
The history of suit graphics. 2.1.
Visual costume communication. Evolution of costume shape. Graphics, as a type
of artistic representation of the costume as an independent genre of art.
Conversation graphics, graphic design suit of XIX century. The first fashion
magazines. The origin of the genre. Building a culture of costume graphics. The
development of the fashion industry. The birth of haute couture. Activities of
Vort. 2.2. Graphics costume XIX - early XX century. Style Modern. The ideas of
the Pre-Raphaelites. The influence of "Russian Seasons" on the
formation of a new culture of costume in Europe. Creativity of L. Bakst century).
2.3. The graphic style of Art Nouveau, Art deko. Stylistics costume graphics
models of Paul Poiret. Creativity of Paul Iribe, George Lepapa, Roman Tyrtova
(Erte), Ernst Dryden. 2.4. Fashion and avant-garde art. Influence of Futurism
and Cubism to costume design. Functionalism and new ideas designing clothes.
Russian Constructivists. Creativity of V.Stepanova, A.Rodchenko, A. Exter,
L.Popova. 2.5 The impact of surrealism to the fashion 20s years. Creativity of
G.Chanel and E.Schiaparelli in the 30s years. Fashionable image, the impact of
sport to fashion, fashion characters. Graphic flow, the structure of the
costume. 2.6. Fashion in the 40s years in Europe. Fashion of the UK (plan
"Utility"). Creating of an US-style (patriotic chic). The post-war
fashion project "Theatre of Fashion". Formation of the "consumer
society". 2.7. Fashion image in the 50s years. Creation of Christian Dior.
Figurative-associative method in the design of the suit. Graphics of Dior.
"The new functionalism" of Chanel. 2.8. The concept of high quality
ready-made garments (ready-to-wear). Creativity of Pierre Cardin. Fashion in
the 60s years. The impact of youth culture to fashion. Graphical fashion means
in the 60 - 70s years. Creativity of A. Kurrezha, Constructivism and Futurism. Creativity
of I. Saint Laurent. The impact on the style of hippie fashion in the 70s
years. 2. 9. Eclectic and "diffuse" style. Fashion graphics in the
70s years. Japanese artistic traditions in vogue in the 70 - 80-ies.
Deconstruction and minimalism of the 90s. Development trends and ethnic design
ethnic futurism in the world. Method of technological reconstruction of
artistic processes of ethnic art.
3. Expressive means of graphics costume
and their improvement.
Expressive
means of graphics and imaginative perception of the image. Object and
environment. Style as a unified system of graphic signs. Classification of
styles. Subject of Graphemics. Descriptive signs, graphics unit. Emotional
characteristics of the graph. A culture of graphic lines. Display Properties of
spot image. Dashed image. Spot image. Technical classification of descriptive
signs. Universal classification of descriptive signs. The ratio of units of the
theoretical costume and graphic
language. The notion of isomorphic, icons, interikon, izomorphology, iconology.
Principles of creation of artistic and compositional structure of the iconic
sign. Language function is descriptive signs. Pictorial language units.
Technical classification of descriptive signs. Features of signs "line"
and "spot". Methods of combining and meaning of education.
Combinatorics. Types of transformation. Analysis of Graphemics units. An
analysis of the semantic content of the object. The development of artistic and
compositional structure of the iconic sign.
4. Specificity and symbols of national
Kazakh clothes. The study of the Kazakh national traditions, rituals, epics,
mythology; the history of the Kazakh costume and changes of its elements -
style, image, composition, color, texture, materials, workmanship, design,
decoration, decor, combined with jewelry, age and social group, semantics and
symbolism, the connection with rituals and so forth. The dynamics of changes
elements of costume (style, image, composition, color, texture, materials,
workmanship, design, decoration, decor, combined with jewelry, age and social
group, semantics and symbolism, the connection with rituals and so forth.)
Concept and direction of modern development clothes on the base of national
traditions, especially of the means of design and sketch graphs from different
designers. The wording of the creative method; analysis of the artistic
language of arts and crafts and fashion design within the Kazakh culture and
arts.
5.
Computer technologies in graphic clothes. Conceptual thinking of postmodern.
Digital technology and design. The origin of computer design and its
application in the sketch chart suit. Video art. The image of the costume
collection and its role in multimedia projects. Codes and symbols in the
multimedia projects of clothing collections. Aesthetic and mental integrity in
multimedia projects, their social role. Review and analysis of modern software
for sketching, modeling and presentation of clothing projects.
Practical aspects of the
development of the sketch graphics.
1. Graphic techniques means of images.
Schematic representation of the human figure with the use of conditional
proportional scheme; transfer of volume figures, building of silhouette shapes
of clothing using different types of lines, the basics of drawing stylized
human figure; development of skills of modeling silhouette shapes of clothing
by various means in the plane of the composition; connection of lines, spots
and dots; monumental image, built on the contrast of black and white spots;
planar ornamental solution - decorative form is based on a combination of local
color patches no more than 3 - 4 colors; line graphics shapes; graphical
solution of the human figure through a combination of lines and spots; line
drawing figure (model in the clothes of 2 - 3 different tone of parts with a
simple geometric patterns, silhouette picture; line-plastic solution; tonal and
spot decision.
2. Graphic materials, techniques and
effects. Graphic sketching techniques (collage, working with spray, "dry
brush", "on-wet", "monotype", receiving a spatula and
etc .; techniques of clothes’ images in the advertising graphics (poster
reception, receiving a fashion magazine, receiving newspapers, welcome
booklet)); basic sketch form, the odds-sketches, methods of development of creative
designs; working drafts; algorithm for creating desktop (technical drawing);
advertising and graphic design of the project. Methods of obtaining static and
dynamic compositions. Op art in the schedule of costume and textiles.
Construction of planar compositions, revealing volumes and spaces.
3. Fixation in the history of the
Kazakh costume sketches and changes of its elements - style, image,
composition, color, texture, materials, workmanship, design, decoration, decor,
combined with jewelry, age and social group, semantics and symbolism, the
connection with rituals and so forth.
4. Generalized specifics of the Kazakh
costume sketches by age latching silhouette with dominating colors, decor
location (girl, girl, wedding costume, costume of women the first year of
marriage, young women suit, suit of woman after the birth of the child, an
elderly woman suit, suit of priestess, suit of shaman, boy, boys suit, mature
men, elderly men, priests, shaman, warrior); sketches features used design
tools and sketch graphs from different Kazakh designers.
6. Implementation of the
microstructures of clothes and their combinations (microstructures – ethnic
graphic image recognizable forms (sleeves, collar), endowed with semantic
content, equivalent to real objects).
7. Image of macrostructures - graphic
structures, the scale of which is equal to the scale of the whole costume
graphic work, perceived as a single unit (model light and various assortment of
outerwear). In the sketches the replacing of some elements of clothing ensemble
is practiced and performing other image to suit the new unity of its elements.
Methods of combining and meaning of education. Combinatorics. Types of
transformation. Analysis of units of Graphemics. Making of complex of
descriptive signs with different tools, materials. Styling of the object of
their own or desired properties. An analysis of the semantic content of the
object. The development of artistic and compositional structure of the iconic
sign, expressing the dominant properties of the object - a prototype. The
visual expression of the physical properties of the material conditional.
Development of complex graphical suit by analogy method. Development of complex
graphical suit by inversion method.
8. The use of sketches collection technologies
and materials of traditional Kazakh crafts (voylokodelie, weaving, leather,
etc..) and use as a source of creativity for the development of a collection of
sketches of the Kazakh national traditions, rites; imagery and symbolism of
fairy tales, totems, epics, mythology; architecture motifs, jewelry, PDI. The
presentation of graphic representation of the design collection of the project
with national specifics.
9. Computer graphics technology. Waste
composition with using of textural effects CorelDRAW. Development of geometric
composition (two-dimensional / three-dimensional) national ornament with
CorelDRAW. Using of computer-aided design techniques Kazakh ornaments on the
basis of AutoCAD graphics and database ornaments. Development of fordraft
collection of clothes for young children to celebrate Nauryz. Development of
finish sketch in color. Analysis of graphical structure. Performing of journal
page "national clothing for children" to the text content of
CorelDRAW, Adobe Photoshop. Implementation of advertising pages "fashion
textiles» Corel PHOTO-PAINT, Adobe Photoshop, Ilustrator. Sketching clothing
collection in traditional style with textural effects. Development of the
graphic series models sportswear with national elements for Olympiad, Asian
Games, on the basis of the visual stereotype. The study of the concept of
"category of the image." Selecting graphic elements and performing a
sketch collection of models in the style of "classic" with national
elements. Sketching a collection of models in the style of "casual"
with national elements. Three-dimensional modeling and integrated fashion
design, creating patterns using Marvelous Designer, Assol’ design and so on.
The development of magazine pages in Kazakhstan's fashion magazine using PageMaker.
Development of the multimedia screen or copyright site of design clothes in a
traditional style using Flash, Sound Forge, Macromedia Dreamweaver.
Thus on the basis of ethnic culture is
the development of professional skills and education can be considered as
complex as the students performed a variety of learning activities: working
with sources of information- reproductive and search techniques; searching and
development of visual material - a demo method; by the type of cognitive and
creative activity- heuristic research method. This distinctive advantage of
these methods and techniques in relation to the formation of fashion designers
is that the result of the activity always becomes an art, creatively
transformed product.
Literature:
1. Bеnin V.L. Pedagogical culture
science: lectures: teaching aid / V.L. Bеnin. — Ufa city: Publishing house BSPU, 2004.
2. Ermilova D.U. History of Fashion Houses / D.U.
Ermilova. – М.: Publishing centre «Academy», 2004.
3. Кondrat’eva К.А. Design and culture ecology / К.А. Кondrat’eva. – М., 2004.
4. Savel’eva I.N. Image of modern design and its
formation ways on the base of development of ethnic desing traditions / I.N.
Savel’eva // Image science 2005, theory and practice: materials of the Third
international symposium. — М.: RIC AIM, 2005.
Annotation.
The article summarizes the theoretical and practical aspects of innovative
approach using on the base of national traditions in the formation of graphic
skills at the undergraduate of specialization Industrial Design (Fashion
Design).
Keywords: sketch drawing,
a task, exercise, graphic training, skill formation, national tradition,
Fashion Design.
Аннотация. В статье кратко
представлены теоретические и практические аспекты использования инновационного
подхода на основе национальных традиций в формировании графических умений у
бакалавров специализации промышленный дизайн (дизайн одежды).
Ключевые
слова: эскизная графика,
задача, упражнение, графическая подготовка, формирование умений, национальные
традиции, дизайн одежды.
ЗАЯВКА
1) Ф.И.О.
а)
Ворожейкина Ольга Игорьевна
б) Уташева Сара Ермековна
2)
Организация Западно-Казахстанский государственный университет им. М.Утемисова,
факультет культуры и искусства
3) Научная степень, должность
а) к.п.н.,
профессор
б)
магистрантка I-го курса, специальности «Дизайн», факультета культуры и искусства ЗКГУ им М.
Утемисова, г.Уральск, Казахстан
4) Адрес
090009 Казахстан. г. Уральск, М. Маметова, д. 56, кв. 23. Контактные телефоны:
дом.8(7112)540854;
Сот. 8 777 2402754 lion_cub@mail.ru.
5) Статья «Региональный аспект
методической подготовки и формирования графических навыков дизайнеров одежды»
6) Педагогические науки.Методика преподавания спец.дисциплин в вузе
«Статья публикуется впервые» 
12.12.2015